Songkarn in Hua Hin

As the title says, we were in Hua Hin for the long Holiday.  Songkarn is the Thai new year and also the hottest time of the year.  The family decided to escape the heat by heading for the oh-no-it’s-turning-into-Pattaya beachtown Hua Hin.  We were happy to see the kids splashing happily in the water, catching all kinds of shellfish on the beach, getting tanned or sunburned, feasting on fresh seafood……………….it all seems so far away from the sad chaos in Bangkok.

Even after we received news about the “calm” in Bangkok, we didn’t feel like leaving.  But all good things must come to an end as they say.  Well, not before we make the stop at Daeng Seafood in Mahachai. Daeng has another branch but I’ve been told the original shop in Mahachai is “the one to go.”

The place was jam-packed when we arrived at 6:30 PM.  Luckily we only waited half an hour for a table of 13.  We ordered all of the special (listed in Thai above) except for one.  Unfortunately, because of Songkarn and the large crowd, Daeng ran out of many things.  Including my favorite mackerel in a sweet and salty sauce and steamed whole crabs with roe.  But we were glad they still got those jumbo shrimps baked lightly with just salt to bring out the natural sweetness.

Another thing not to be missed is the shrimp fried rice.  It’s the only place I know that uses those jumbo shrimps to fry with the rice.  Plus, I suspect, shrimp tomalley has been added.  The texture of the rice was just right – not soggy, not tough – and has absorbed the delicate flavor and smell of those creamy tomalley.  I ate two HUGE plates.

Next up was my new favorite that Daeng calls garlic squid but there is nothing garlic-y about the taste in a bad way.  The sauce was a beautiful blend of fish sauce and palm sugar with just a pleasant hint of garlic.  Yup, no bad breath afterward.

The only dish I didn’t like was the crab meat curry.  It was a little too light for me but the crabs were like everything else super fresh.

There was a huge fried sea bass, stir-fried kale and other dishes that I didn’t take pictures of.  Too busy feasting!

Krua Loong Ya (ครัวลุงญา)

We spend the past weekend at Hua Hin, a not-so-sleepy-anymore fishing town. People say it still retains old charms and will never become like Pattaya. I say only the later half is true. I last visited Hua Hin five years ago. Back then, it was quiet and sort of sleepy. Today, it hosts an annual jazz festival and its beach is dotted by an alarming number of condominiums — all offering “The Ultimate Luxury Beachside Lifestyle.” I could barely recognize the new facelift.

That said, I had a wonderful time. I didn’t get to visit my favorite places and I hope when I am back next time they will still be there. Back then we always visit the same old restaurants whose menu never change. These restaurants usually have no air conditioning. Mosquitoes are a major problem at night but the seafood is super fresh and that just about make up for everything else. These days there are more Italian and chain restaurants than I can count. Yes, I am sad. But the only constant is change, isn’t it.

On the way back, a friend recommended Krua Loong Ya or Uncle Ya’s Kitchen, a “real Thai, real local” restaurant (read: no air conditioning, no fusion food, plastic plates, aluminium utensils, and real spicy not overtly sweet food), on Rama II. He claimed the Miang Sea Bass or miang pla krapong (เมี่ยงปลากระพง) is a must-order. Must try we went.

Disappointed we weren’t.

Krua Loong Ya is situated on what could be a defunct shrimp pond. I said could be because I didn’t ask. Too busy taking pictures. But I am told the many ponds that dot the area used to be shrimp farms. These days, they are used to raise sea bass. Some, like Krua Loong Ya, are converted to restaurants. And, of course, these restaurants feature extensive menus with sea bass.

At Krua Loong Ya, the star is Miang Sea Bass. And Uncle Ya doesn’t let you miss that point. It is well printed on all glasess: The original Miang Sea Bass. (Miang is a traditional Thai snack that usually consists of miang leaves (betel leaves) used to wrap peanuts, lime, dried shrimp, shallots, lemongrass, ginger, chili and a sweet and sour sauce. There are many variations. Today, miang is served as an hors d’oeuvres in many Thai restaurants.)

But the other dishes are equally good. One of my favorites is the Yum Pak Chakram (ยำผักชะคราม) or Chakram Salad. What is chakram? I had absolutely no idea. Thought it was some kind of seaweed — a salty, tart and sour kind that is just perfect for Thai salads, especially drenched in fresh sweet coconut milk. I only found out after googling that it is seepweed.

The next dish is squid stir-fried with salted egg yolks. I seem to be the only one who enjoyed it. Most at the table preferred grilled squid, I think. Too bad, it wasn’t ordered. So I had more than my fair share of this dish. Not complaining at all. I haven’t had this dish in years.

Another of my favorite is clams stir-fried in Thai chili paste. I usually refrain from ordering anything with Thai chili paste (nam prik pao) because they tend to be coyingly sweet. This one was perfect. The clams were super fresh and juicy. (Note the word fresh here. It will be used a lot. Because that’s what it is.)

Not to be missed is flathead lobsters fried in garlic and pepper. Succulent, sweet, tender, and frrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrresh.

Next up is our one of the two sea bass dishes — Fried Sea Bass with a Green Mango Dressing. Fresh! Fresh! Fresh! Get it?

Lastly, the star finally made its appearance. Ladies and gentlemen, I present you Miang Sea Bass! No applause, please.

Actually, I had already forgotten about it. We were already full when the waitress brought the dish. Yea, it was only when we saw it that we went,”What!? Another dish! Oh, wait. It’s what we came for.”

It’s not your typical miang in which some kind of veggie leaves is served with chopped shallots, garlic, etc. Instead, the sea bass is cut into large pieces, deep-fried crispy and topped with chopped shallots, lemongrass, lime with skin on, peanuts, ginger, and chili mixed with the miang sauce. I can see why this was served last. Despite being fried, it was actually refreshing and light. The fragrant lemongrass and acidic bitter sour lime cut right through the heaviness. The fish was tender inside. The crunchiness was further enhanced by the fried peanuts. The astrigent ginger and chili kept everything in balance. On top of that the miang sauce was a perfect mix of sour, salty and sweet. There were no leaves to wrap up everything but it’s not needed. Everything was just as Uncle Ya claims: original. Did I forget to mention that it was………………….fresh!

Go back soon we must.

Don Hoi Lod

The last time I went to Don Hoi Lod, about 74 kilometers southwest of Bangkok, was almost 20 years ago. The place is located in the Mae Klong Bay, known for its horse mackerel. Back then it was still dirt roads and no air-conditioned restaurants. I have often thought about visiting it again since seeing the various changes it has gone through on television. Visiting it this past Saturday shows that a lot has definitely changed. Ugly green street lights were put up. Back then there were few food stalls and, of course, there was hardly anyone. Not complaining but it doesn’t have that rustic charm any more. It all seems so……….Disney-fied. Things are changed, paved, or put up just to attract more visitors. I hope it doesn’t become a mini-Pattaya.

We were supposed to get there before noon but someone overslept. By the time we got there it was past 2 PM. Naturally we were starving. Millions of restaurant billboards line the street. The sign for horse mackerel burger caught my eye. We found it easily next door to a plethora of restaurants all tooting the same mantra “Not fresh, not delicious, no pay.” The food was exactly that: fresh, quite delicious, so we paid. My only vibe was the nasty horse mackerel burger. I had hiiiiiiiigh hopes for it. It tasted like very soft Japanese fish cake topped with very sweet ketchup and mayo. Gross. Neighboring tables loved it though.

Top view from the restaurant which is on stilts. When I was a kid, there used to be small red crabs with large claws crawling along side these half-salamander, half-fish creatures. Was told the crabs are a wonderful delicacy and over-caught like the horse makerel. Maybe that’s why we didn’t see any.

Like this dish – platoo ta tia (horse mackerel in sweet and spicy sauce).

Overcooked!

Sis’ favorite dish.

Another dish I like – platoo tom madan (horse mackerel soup with madan, a sour fruit also known as garcinia schomburkiana. Yea, I googled for the long English name.)

Squid steamed with lemons, lime, chili and garlic. Delicious!

The nasty horse makerel burger.

Roti, Thai-style, not from the restaurant. Sis bought it off the street. Very good, I must say. It’s tinged green because of the added pandan juice.

Found in a food stall -the missing crabs????

I’d like to go back next time to take the boat trip to visit the temple that was under construction when I was younger, see life along the river, visit the floating market…………..hope it won’t take me another 20 years!