Watermelon with Salmon and Sakura Ebi

Sweet, juicy, crispy…..who doesn’t love watermelon? Even the August/September issue of Saveur is dedicated to this gem of a fruit. I normally do not like fruits in my food but when I tried the Mediterranean Salad (with Feta cheese and watermelon) at The Oriental, I have been using watermelon in my salads more and more often. I hope this trend will help bring back a very traditional Thai dish – Watermelon with Dried Fish Topping – that even most Thais have sadly forgotten. In fact, it’s my favorite snack at the moment with a little twist. It’s usually made with catfish but I use salmon instead (gave up eating catfish long ago). To give it extra crunch I sometimes add Sakura Ebi. It may seem an unlikely combination but the sweet and salty crunch of the fish topping with juicy cold watermelon is just very refreshing especially on a very hot day. I have also tried it with several other fish: mackerel, cod and Japanese saba. The mackerel and saba was too fishy (pun unintended, really). Cod was not bad but the salmon wins hands down.

Ingredients:

As much watermelon as you like (cut into bite size pieces)

150 grams of salmon

1 tablespoon or more of sakura ebi

1 tablespoon of fried shallots

1 tablespoon of cooking oil

Sugar and salt to taste

1. Cut the salmon into thin slices. Put into oven at 100 degrees Celcius. Keep an eye on it as they brown fast. (Shouldn’t take more than 20 minutes). When they are crispy and golden brown, remove from oven.

2. Put the above in a motar and pestle and start pounding until they are fluffed like pork floss. Unfortunately, you can’t use a food processor. It won’t “fluff”.

3. Set a pan on low heat and add 1 tablespoon of oil. Slowly fry the Sakura Ebi. When it starts to brown add in the sugar. I personally use no more then 1 tablespoon so the sugar won’t mask the sweetness of the watermelon. Just as the shrimp starts to caramelize, add in the salmon. Stir fry quickly so the mixture won’t burn. When the salmon is fried crispy season with a little salt. Mix well and remove from pan.

4. Add the fried shallots to the salmon and serve with watermelon on the side.

5. Top watermelon with the salmon and enjoy!

Tip: For extra kick, sprinkle with chili powder before eating!

Chinese Toon Pancake

Fried onion flakes. That’s what I think Chinese Toon or Toona Sinensis or Hsiang Chun in Chinese smells like. A little grassy when uncooked but definitely oniony. I had my first Toon three years ago at a vegetarian noodle place in Taiwan. Since then, I have been in love with the plant. For years when I went back to France, I would call home to reminisce about the wonderful meal. It was only recently that I found out Mom has two Toons growing in her garden. I am back in Bangkok for a year now and I just realize the family has been enjoying the plant for years without me knowing. What the…

The last time I went home the housekeeper gave me such a HUGE bunch that my fridge threatens to burst an avalanche of green twigs and leaves. I exaggerate, but one shelf is now hogged by the Toons and everything in the fridge smells like green grassy onion…..including water. So, yes, I need to use them up ASAP. The most common way to cook them is scrambled with eggs but one can only eat so much onion-flavored scrambled eggs. When I asked Mom what else I can do with them, she shook her head. My bad, I guess. My mom does not know how to cook and I am asking her for cooking advice. Funny she’s the one who brought back the Toon saplings from Taiwan. Dad suggests stir-fries and a certain chicken roll that I haven’t gotten around to making, yet.

I decided to make those succulent scallion pancakes except to replace the scallions with Toons. It was my first time to make the pancakes and I made sure I followed the recipe in every minutest detail in the cookbook. Only problem is some cookbooks do not come with warnings….nor do they include les faux-pas. My pancakes came out chewy and tough. That really got me. I was sure the perfect Toon pancakes can’t be that difficult, can it? I consulted a few more cookbooks, the internet and other people who make them on a regular basis…..let’s just say I was so determined to get it right that I even weighed the water used. After a few tries, I got my faux-pas pinned down. For a change, I made mine with a pork and Toon filling. The best Toon parts are the tender young leaves. Save the tougher leaves for making Toon paste (kinda like pesto) or dry them to make tea.

Chinese pancakes are traditionally made with lard but you can substitute with other cooking oil. Although I wouldn’t suggest olive or other pungent oil that would clash with the smell of the Toons. The pancakes are made with what is known as the blanched or boiled flour method in Chinese. The flour is lightly blanched with hot water added in. It’s what makes the dough soft and chewy. They are also traditionally made with medium-gluten or all purpose flour. Some of my mom’s friends prefers mixing low-gluten (cake flour) with all purpose flour. Some mix in potato flour (hard to get that in Thailand). Still others mix whole wheat and other flours. I limited my experiment to just the “traditional” way–using only medium gluten flour–but you can try different flours to get different textures.

Ingredients:
150 grams medium-gluten or all purpose flour
50 grams boiling hot water
50 grams water
50 grams minced Toon
100 grams mined pork
1 teaspoon garlic (optional)
1 tablespoon scallion (optional)
1 tablespoon sesame oil (optional)
Grapeseed oil, Canola or other cooking oil for frying
Lard (optional)
Salt to season

1. Put the flour into a large mixing bowl. As you pour in the hot water all around the flour with one hand, quickly mix with the other using a fork or chopsticks! Do not attempt to use your hands, yet. Dough is very hot! When thoroughly mixed, slowly pour in the cold water and mix with hands to feel the texture. (At this point the dough should be warm enough for you to use your hands). It will be slightly sticky and that is how it should be, but you should be able to pull it off clean from the bowl and your hands. Set aside in a bowl covered with a wet cloth or saran wrap. Let rest for 30 minutes.

Faux pas 1: Do not pour in all the cold water at once. Most likely you won’t use up the 50 grams. Start with half the amount and slowly mix and check the dough. The dough has to be a little bit sticky. Do not add in more flour or the dough will become tough. Make sure the dough is well kneaded and not lumpy.

2. Mix the minced Toon with the ground pork, scallion, sesame oil and salt together. Heat up the pan and stir fry the garlic. Just as it is about to turn golden yellow, add in the Toon mixture. When cooked set aside.

Faux pas 2: After washing the Toons let dry well before use or the dough will break when rolled up. You can choose to season the pancakes by adding salt directly to the Toon mixture or sprinkle it lightly onto the dough later. Some recipes add the salt right into step 1.

3. Flour very lightly the counter or whatever you will be working on. Roll the dough into a tube and divide into two equal parts. Set one aside. Roll the other into a ball and then roll it again into a rectangle about 12″ by 8″. Brush the dough with lard or other cooking oil on top. Spread out the Toon mixture on top. Start rolling the dough from the longer end. The smaller you start rolling the more layers you will get. As you roll, remember to squeeze out as much air as possible.

When done, roll it up into a coil like the picture. Set aside and work on the other one.

Faux pas 3: Do not overstuff the filling. I guess everyone already know this but I have to remind myself from time to time. When I first made these I brushed lard on both sides of the dough since it was so sticky. (I had added too much water). If you do this, the dough will not stick to each other after being rolled into a coil. It will come loose when fried. In any case, do not be tempted to add extra flour to the slightly sticky dough. I did that and the pancake was very doughy.

4. Take one of the dough and roll it flat but not pancake flat or it will burst. You can only roll it that flat when the filling is not meat based. Heat up the pan and season it well. Turn heat down to medium-low. Pour in one tablespoon of oil and swirl around pan. Put in the pancake. When it starts to turn yellow, flip over. Flip over again when the other side starts to turn yellow. Move the pancake around in a circular motion on the pan so it will cook evenly. What happens next is a series of flipping and swirling. When it starts to get golden brown, fluff the pancake by pushing its sides towards the center. Kinda like fluffing your pillow. Make sure to fluff both sides. The pancake is done when it is golden brown.

Toon paste pancake rolled flat.

Faux-pas 4: Do not use high heat. Low to medium heat is best. Do not push down on the pancake with a spatula. It will result in a very dense and tough pancake. Plus you won’t get those soft chewy layers as seen in the picture top of the page. Must fluff the pancake to achieve a soft texture. When I mentioned this to Sis, she rolled her eyes and exclaimed, “That’s how they make roti!” I guess it’s no biggie for her. But she is right. Now that she mentioned it, Thai roti makers do fluff their rotis as said. Come to think of it, the pancake texture is similar to the roti…

You can also make them vegetarian. Just stir-fry the Toons lightly in sesame oil and season with salt. Alternatively, you can make a Toon pesto (blend Toon leaves with oil and salt) and use it as a filling.

If you are using the tougher leaves for Toon pesto, make sure to remove the stem in the center of the leaves.

Baking for Pak Kred Orphanage

When Sis asked if I would be interested in baking for the Pak Kred Orphanage, I jumped right at the chance without any hesitation. True, I have only baked cookies like twice in my life, but I was sure if I followed the instructions right to the minutest details I can get it right, right? So with another friend we baked Melting Moment cookies with Lime Butter Cream and Caramel Custard Chiffon Cake. We spend one whole afternoon churning out the cake and cookies with high hopes that the children will love them. I thought everything turned out well but my friend was a little upset that the cake didn’t rise as much as it should but I felt the taste more than made up for it. After that day I was determined to bake more often and maybe someday the kids will give me big thumbs up!

The next day we drove down to the orphanage excited to give the children the baked goodies along with other donation. We stopped first at the Pakkred Babies Home Foundation for abandoned babies. It was already past noon when we arrived and all the babies were napping. I managed to get a glimpse of the sleeping babies. So many of them! All napping soundly. How can anyone abandon such beauties! Now I understand Brangelina’s adoption quest. We promptly dropped off part of the donation and drove to the next foundation for the physically and mentally handicapped children on the other side of the street. There was a group of children playing catch when we arrived. Those still able to run pushed those in wheelchairs…they were laughing and all having such a good time…without a care for the world. But the most heart-wretching part was seeing mentally handicapped children lying helplessly on the floor. Sis had warned me that she could barely contain herself from crying the first time she visited the place. It really felt like someone was gripping your heart to rip it out and cut it into pieces…

After giving the donation to the administration, Sis started giving out the baked goodies to the children. They loved the cake but threw away the cookies! Dumped them right into the garbage bin right in front of us! Haaaa….I just luuuuurrrrvvvvv such unpretentious innocence! Children are such a joy to be with! Guess children only like cookies made from chocolate and chocolate and CHOCOLATE!!!

Saved a piece of the Caramel Custard Chiffon Cake for hubby….he loved it, too.

These cookies they spat out…

I was hesitant to take any pictures of the children, afraid they would be self-conscious but boy, was I wrong. They couldn’t careless.

I hope whatever the future holds for them, they will always be happy and carefree.

Taiwanese Garlic Somen

When I read this post I immediately think of the garlic somen that Grandma used to make me when I have late night attacks of hunger. I haven’t had this dish in almost fifteen years. If you talk to just about any Taiwanese they will smile or laugh….simply because it’s such a rustic and simple dish. Every household knows how to make this. No secret recipes or ingredients at all. Just cooked Taiwanese somen (which can be thinner than the Japanese counterpart) mixed with sesame oil, chopped garlic, chopped scallions, and a dash of thick Taiwanese soy sauce which is gravy-like with a slight hint of sweetness. (It’s also very different from kepac manis that is common in Southeast Asia cuisine). Because I have lived in Thailand for so long now, my palate screams for chili from time to time. Hence, I sometimes drizzle it with chili oil.

Ingredients:

Taiwanese somen (Can substitute with Japanese somen)
Taiwanese thick soy sauce or any other soy sauce you like
Chopped garlic and scallion
Sesame oil

No measurement for the ingredients because this is the kind of dish in which you add in as much of everything as you want.

1. Bring water to a boil and put in the somen. Cook according to manufacturer’s instructions. My family loves these somen wrapped in fuschia paper. We always lug back by the ton. In fact, when we asked relatives to bring us somen, they know straight away that it has to be the fuschia paper-wrapped brand. They also cook extremely fast…in less than 20 seconds.

2. Remove immediately and put into large mixing bowl. Do NOT rinse in cold water. Add the sesame oil, garlic, and scallions. Mix everything up and the perfect night cap is served! Yes, you will reek of garlic but you will be in bed full and happy!

Chinese Olives Fried Rice

The first time I tried making this was in France. It was one of many dishes I couldn’t find anywhere in Paris. In fact, I have yet to see this dish outside of Thailand even though it is a Chinese influence. Since it requires few ingredients, I resorted to making it based on my own mish-mash sense of how the dish should be. (Actually, it was based on my vague memories of the ones at Kalaprapreuk.)

Chinese olives (canarium album L.) are different from the Mediterranean kind (olea europaea). They are oblong in shape and their seeds are pointed on both ends. They are usually cured in brine or sugar & licorice. Use the former for this fried rice. The later is usually used for making soups.

The first time I made it, I didn’t taste the olives beforehand which was a big mistake. The dish turned out extremely salty. Since then l always

rinse the olives lightly before use. I had also added too much shallots which made the dish a little too shalloty-sweet. After many tries, I realize it’s best to leave out the shallots. Back home, I find there are many versions of the dish. Some are made with cilantro roots, shallots, garlic, oyster sauce……others are served with the same condiments as Kapi Rice. I think it is best just served with a wedge of lime, slices of cucumber and chili. This dish is simple and straightforward. I don’t think it needs extra seasoning since the olives are already salted but you can add fish sauce at the end. The key ingredient that makes all the difference is lard. Frying the rice with lard gives it so much taste! Another tip is to mix the rice with the crispy crackling you get from rendering lard before serving – pure pork heaven! This is also the one dish in which I strongly advocate putting your elbow grease to good use – chop your own minced pork! It lends the dish so much texture!

Ingredients:

2 cups rice (Use day-old rice or if making from scratch make sure to add a little less water. I usually cook 1 cup of rice to ¾ cup of water when I want to make fried rice. It varies with the type of rice used. Let cool before frying or rice will become mushy.)
2 cloves large garlic minced
10 salted Chinese olives (rinsed, please!)
150 grams minced pork
3 tablespoons of lard
3 tablespoons of pork fat crackling
Lime, cumber, chili (served as condiments. As much as you like.)

1.Start by rendering your own pork fat. It’s easy, really. Cut the pork fat into 1 inch thin strips. Heat the wok medium high. Put in the pork fat and let it slowly ooze out fragrant gold liquid. Stir from time to time to prevent it from burning. Remove the pork fat crackling when it starts to turn golden brown. It will continue cooking for a little while. Reserve the oil in a separate bowl.

2.Rinse the Chinese olives Remove the seeds by gently squeezing the olives. They should come off easily. Put aside.

3.Next comes the step in which your elbow will be put to good use…or borrow someone else’s! Cut the pork (I use filet mignon) into thin 1 inch slices and then start chopping away like you’re mad when the housekeeper shrank your silk blouse again and again and again! When done, thoroughly mix in the olives with a fork. You should get a black-purplish minced pork mixture.

Caution: Do not use your expensive super-duper knife for this job. Use your cheap knife or invest in one.

4.Heat up the wok. Add in 3 tablespoons of lard then the garlic. When the garlic just about browns, add in the olive and pork mixture. Keep stir frying until the pork is about done. Add in the rice. Fry and mix well. Taste. If it is not salty enough add a small splash of fish sauce.

5.Scoop onto plate or rice bowl. Top with the pork crackling and serve with the lime, cucumber and chili.