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The last time I went to Don Hoi Lod, about 74 kilometers southwest of Bangkok, was almost 20 years ago. The place is located in the Mae Klong Bay, known for its horse mackerel. Back then it was still dirt roads and no air-conditioned restaurants. I have often thought about visiting it again since seeing the various changes it has gone through on television. Visiting it this past Saturday shows that a lot has definitely changed. Ugly green street lights were put up. Back then there were few food stalls and, of course, there was hardly anyone. Not complaining but it doesn’t have that rustic charm any more. It all seems so……….Disney-fied. Things are changed, paved, or put up just to attract more visitors. I hope it doesn’t become a mini-Pattaya.
We were supposed to get there before noon but someone overslept. By the time we got there it was past 2 PM. Naturally we were starving. Millions of restaurant billboards line the street. The sign for horse mackerel burger caught my eye. We found it easily next door to a plethora of restaurants all tooting the same mantra “Not fresh, not delicious, no pay.” The food was exactly that: fresh, quite delicious, so we paid. My only vibe was the nasty horse mackerel burger. I had hiiiiiiiigh hopes for it. It tasted like very soft Japanese fish cake topped with very sweet ketchup and mayo. Gross. Neighboring tables loved it though.
Top view from the restaurant which is on stilts. When I was a kid, there used to be small red crabs with large claws crawling along side these half-salamander, half-fish creatures. Was told the crabs are a wonderful delicacy and over-caught like the horse makerel. Maybe that’s why we didn’t see any.
Like this dish – platoo ta tia (horse mackerel in sweet and spicy sauce).
Overcooked!
Sis’ favorite dish.
Another dish I like – platoo tom madan (horse mackerel soup with madan, a sour fruit also known as garcinia schomburkiana. Yea, I googled for the long English name.)
Squid steamed with lemons, lime, chili and garlic. Delicious!
The nasty horse makerel burger.
Roti, Thai-style, not from the restaurant. Sis bought it off the street. Very good, I must say. It’s tinged green because of the added pandan juice.
Found in a food stall -the missing crabs????
I’d like to go back next time to take the boat trip to visit the temple that was under construction when I was younger, see life along the river, visit the floating market…………..hope it won’t take me another 20 years!
This was supposed to be posted looooooong again. It doesn’t make sense to do it now, but looking at the pictures bring back wonderful memories of my graduation night. Family was there and we were at one of our favorite restaurants. I can still remember the crackling taste of the Confit d’Oie and the sweet roasted figs…..gotta make that trip to Paris ASAP!
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